Corfu Old Town
Venice, France and Britain in one walkable UNESCO labyrinth
Venice, France and Britain in one walkable UNESCO labyrinth
Corfu's Old Town is what happens when Venice governs an island for four centuries, France adds an arcade, Britain adds a palace and a cricket pitch, and Greece wraps the whole thing in church bells and jasmine. Inscribed by UNESCO in 2007, it is the most complete historic town in the Ionian: two Venetian fortresses bracketing a labyrinth of tall, shuttered houses, laundry strung between them, and the Liston — the arcaded promenade built under French rule — opening onto the great green Spianada square. For travellers working the corridor, it is also the civilised counterweight to the Riviera's beaches: culture in the morning, sea in the afternoon.
Start at the Old Fortress on its sea-girt promontory — climb to the lighthouse for the view that explains four centuries of naval strategy, with the Albanian mountains closing the horizon. Cross to the Liston for a coffee under the arcades, then dive into the kantounia, the marble-smooth Venetian alleys where the town actually lives. Do not miss Saint Spyridon, whose red-domed campanile is the island's landmark and whose silver-cased patron saint is paraded through the streets four times a year.
The food stops write themselves: pastitsada and sofrito in the old-town tavernas, a scoop of artisanal ice cream in the alleys, and a bottle of kumquat liqueur — the island's Victorian-era citrus curiosity — from one of the old distillery shops. Serious visitors add the Museum of Asian Art in the British-built Palace of St Michael and St George.
The Old Town absorbs cruise crowds in the middle of the day; go early morning or from late afternoon when the light in the alleys turns amber and the squares fill with locals rather than groups. From the Riviera side of the corridor, Corfu Town is a straightforward day trip via the Saranda ferry — 30 to 70 minutes depending on the boat — which docks a short walk from the Old Town. Few UNESCO pairings anywhere are as easy to combine as Butrint and Corfu Old Town in a single stay.
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