The White House, Kalami

What to order, and where to sit

Ask for one of the front-row tables on the waterside terrace — they are the ones worth planning a day around, so reserve ahead in July and August. The kitchen does classic Corfiot and Greek cooking with unusual discipline: start with taramosalata and grilled octopus, then commit to the fresh fish of the day, sold by weight and grilled over charcoal, or the local pastitsada if you want the island's Venetian-spiced signature. The wine list leans Greek; a cold Robola from neighbouring Kefalonia is the right call with fish.

Come at lunch for the full turquoise spectacle of the bay, or at dusk when the Albanian mountains across the strait turn violet — this stretch of water is barely two nautical miles from the coast you may have sailed that morning. Linger: nobody at The White House has ever rushed a table.

Stay · Villas

Eva's *Stone* Villa

A short list above the coast, on request through our concierge.

View villas in Kassiopi

Getting there — the boat is half the pleasure

Kalami is a 40-minute drive from Corfu Town, but the memorable arrival is by sea. Rent a small self-drive motorboat from Kalami, Kouloura or Agni (no licence needed for the smaller ones) and tie up at the restaurant's own moorings, or ask your skipper to drop you at the jetty as part of a northeast-coast day cruise. The Durrell pilgrimage is real, too: the upper floors of the house are rented as apartments, and a small exhibition honours the family's Corfu years.